Croissants and Crampons: The South (Part I)

I was lucky enough this past week to have a visitor from Canada – my cousin Jessica! Our vacations coincided, resulting in a quick trip to Europe for Jess. We took the opportunity to travel to the South of France, where we were lucky enough to catch some of the last warm rays of sun before winter begins to settle in. The trip was full of contrasts, but it was absolutely fantastic, and a nice change from the Alps (not that I’m complaining).

First stop: Marseille. A port city, and the oldest in France (dating back more than 2000 years), Marseille is a diamond in the rough. Although we were “warned” on the train not to stay in Marseille (the general opinion seems to be that it’s dirty and dangerous), we both enjoyed the city’s grittiness and energy. The skyline is dominated by the imposing silhouette of Notre Dame de la Garde (a beautiful church perched on a hill), and the Château d’If, an ancient prison, haunts the shoreline from the island just off the coast. On the night of our arrival, we indulged in bouillabaisse (a rich seafood soup) in one of the charming back alleys of the Vieux Port, and I couldn’t help but feel that we were walking on layer upon layer of history as we wove our way through town. So much so that I don’t think any amount of the local “Savon de Marseille” (beautiful soaps made from olive oil), could wash away the stories that are embedded in the city’s cobblestone.

Downtown Marseille

Jess with Notre Dame de la Garde in the background

Soap

Soap flakes

Savon de Marseille

Second stop: Cassis. Only about 30 min by train away from Marseille, the change of pace between life in Cassis and Marseille was tangible as soon as we stepped off of the train. Like Marseille, Cassis sits on the Mediterranean, but it’s a tiny town where the air smells of fresh ocean breeze, and the buzz of city life is lulled to more of a hum. Our hostel was a little piece of paradise, and we extended our stay upon arrival because the atmosphere was so welcoming. The local attraction here was the Calanques, a National Park composed of beautiful secluded inlets surrounded by steep rocky cliffs. Although we picked what might be considered a miserable day for a hike, the rain brought with it the benefit of solitude, as we got to enjoy lunch on a completely secluded beach.