Thursday 5 July 2012

Full Circle

After 8 months of being abroad - predominantly in France but with many a parenthesis in other European countries - I've returned to life in Canada. It goes without saying that both I, and the country that I've come home to have experienced change in the time I've been away. Some changes are more noticeable than others: my French has become fluid (with a twist of Haute-Savoyard), all of that fondue I ate is partially noticeable (my philosophy when traveling seems to have evolved into "you-need-to-eat-everything-now-you-might-not-get-a-second-chance"), and yes, my list of Facebook friends has evolved in it's international status. Surprisingly, life in Canada didn't come to a screeching halt while I was away either; a plethora of friends have gotten engaged, my little sisters have almost surpassed me in height, and the subdivision of my childhood home continues to expand at an alarming rate.

Eventually, my French accent will fade, my fondue weight will become a mere memory, and only those friends that truly matter will survive the test of Facebook; so I'm left wondering how to communicate the less visible changes I've experienced living and traveling in a completely different part of the world.  Let me start with what I know; that I'm Canadian, and that I truly cherish this aspect of my identity. Stepping off of the sure ground of North America and into what was the great unknown of Europe solidified my inherent "Canadian-ess". I'm proud of my country: english/french/anything accents, the weeks it takes to drive from East to West, our lack of a national cuisine, the kindness inherent to many of our people, our metropolitan cities and landscapes that vary from the untamed Rockies to flatness that stretches on for kilometres in the Prairies.  I already knew that I loved all of these things (and much more) about Canada, but living abroad for an extended period of time gave me something that can easily be forgotten in the day to day routine: gratefulness.

I'm also profoundly grateful for the experience of living in a Francophone country and community; the opportunity for learning the nuances of French culture and language was a gift. French has always been an important language for me, as it allows me to connect with the Québecois maternal half of my family. Yes, the accent, the slang, and even some key words are different when comparing "France" French to "Québec" French,  but the essence remains the same. My mission to become more comfortable and fluent in French was accomplished this year (although there is always room for improvement). Finally! I can watch a French movie without the use of subtitles, can crack a joke in French, and have even learned most of the words necessary to coach a swimming team entirely in French (useful, I know). In my opinion, these are no small feats. 

During the past 8 months my eyes, ears, and taste buds have been happily assaulted with an incredible number of new sites, smells, foods and languages. But what stands out beyond any of this is the people I've met; hearing their stories, and having these stories intersect with my own.  The generosity, kindness and openness that I've encountered on my journey is unparalleled; from the girls I lived with who hailed from the four corners of the world, to the local French folk who opened their arms to me and the smattering of incredible spirits I met during my travels.  Each encounter with another, whether it's someone from your own country or abroad, generally offers a lesson, a laugh, a perspective that you didn't have before.  With the variety of people I befriended this year, it's impossible not to have been changed or inspired by other people's ways of experiencing and being in our world.

Over the last couple of days, I've been conscious of a word that keeps on presenting itself to me: wanderlust, defined as an irresistible impulse to travel or "wander".  It's an observable truth that many members of my own generation "suffer" from said wanderlust, myself among them.  My generation's need to "find oneself", or what I would like to label "disconnecting to connect" manifests itself in traveling far, to places where no one knows you, and where consequently there are no preconceived notions of who you are. It's hard to say whether this is negative or positive; on one hand it's escapist, self-entitled and possibly selfish (your family and friends can't keep up with your comings and goings), but on the other hand it creates a set of experiences that have the potential to change one's perspective in rather important ways. In an increasingly international, multilingual world, it's important to be able to relate to others (whether because of a likeness or a difference) and to understand the place that one's own country and community occupy on the world "stage". All of my experiences to this point have allowed me to develop more fully as a woman and as a citizen not only of Canada but of the world (cliché but true). Wanderlusting brought me to France, which was amazing in all the ways I've already outlined, so if it's a sickness I'm glad (and consider myself lucky) to be a part of the epidemic.

At this point, I've come to the official end of my experience in the French Alps, in Europe, and wandering (for a while). So until the next adventure....Vive la France!


Thursday 5 April 2012

À la prochaine Nora!

Change is in the air here in Cluses. This past weekend we said goodbye to Nora, the German assistant who has been at the centre of our household here in France. She's off to new adventures, including a visit to Lyon and then the start of another semester at University. Meanwhile, the girls who are left are starting the countdown until it's our turn to say "Aurevoir". It's sad, but at the same time refreshing. I've come to love transition times where possibilities open themselves up again, decisions must be made, and there is the opportunity to steer life in any direction you want.

To send Nora off, we put together a photo project with memories of Cluses and portraits of many of the people who would have made her time here special. Nora, if you're reading this, I hope that life post-language assistant has gotten off to an amazing start and that you are enjoying every bit of the journey.

À la prochaine!
Stairwell inside our residence
Yann the plumber
Hannah outside Nora's favourite bookstore
Our train station
Hannah waiting for a lift
La Reine des Tartes: the pest pies in town
Rue Ballaloud, our street
Fiona with Nora's Smart car
Me in my natural environment (Photo: Elena Giovenco)
A view of Cluses
Fiona and Elena
Majo in a classic pose
Alexa
Grand Frais, the best supermarket in town
Melina and myself in the bakery
Melina at the Mayor's Office
Elena in the staff room
Fiona sitting pretty!
Dee happy it's springtime! (Photo: Elena Giovenco)
The whole family (except Melina)

Wednesday 4 April 2012

Tête des Bécus

Last night was the first proper night of spring in Cluses. Rain, thunder, and that distinct energy in the air that is literally electric, pumping life into the earth after a long winter's slumber.  With the rain, colour has been injected once more into the world; blossoms in striking shades of pink and yellow and the grass a vibrant shade of green up in the alpine meadows. The waterfalls that were a trickle in winter are now gushing to feed the new life sprouting everywhere. The seasonal rhythms in France aren't far off of Canada's, so it feels like a piece of home.

Before the rain came, myself and my roommate Fiona went out on what might well have been our last snowshoe of the season. That being said, it was patchy; it felt like every half hour, we were either strapping on or peeling off our snowshoes, as the snow sticks to shady areas, and was completely gone from those areas that see a lot of sun. All of the hassle was worth it for (once again) the view from the peak. No matter how many times I climb to a mountain top in the Alps, I'm still stunned by the beauty.

As usual, at the top there was a cross. At this time of year, with Easter around the corner and spring in the air, it represented for me a celebration of life and renewal. Happy Easter and lots of love to all of my family and friends!


Zig zag to the top
Fiona at the top
Cross
Still going down
Statue of Mary in a grotto along the way
Almost home

Monday 26 March 2012

The Quest for La Croix Verte

Getting lost while hiking, biking or simply taking a stroll is one of my favourite things to accidentally do; you always end up discovering new nooks, secret passages, or treasures you just didn't expect to stumble upon.

Yesterday, with the sun beating down and spring in the air, myself, Fiona and Elena took off to discover the mountains in our own backyard in Cluses. Although our intent was to eventually end up at "La Croix Verte", we ended up meandering through the forest, losing our way, and having a lovely time. La Croix Verte evaded us this time, but it's the journey that counts, right?

Only one way to go
No trespassing
Skeletons
Naked trees
Some signs of life
Strolling
First blooms
Look twice: a pile of ants
VTT
On the way down

Monday 19 March 2012

Ski Touring Attempt #1

Back in Canada, my friends in Vancouver were always raving about the merits of ski touring, where the chaos of groomed slopes is replaced by the solitude and beauty of nature. Despite the fact that the sport received such positive reviews, there were a number of things that I just couldn't wrap my head around. First, strapping on heavy skis and walking up a mountain? No thanks. Secondly, whenever someone mentions the "back country" my survival instincts scream "AVALANCHE", thus paralyzing me in fear. Needless to say, it didn't seem like a sport that I was likely to enjoy nor take up anytime soon. Slowly, I am seeing the light.

My first realization came on my first snowshoe in the Alps to Mont Truc. I had, ironically, strapped snowshoes onto my feet to walk up a mountain.  There were ski tourers close by, and I admit that in my head I may have snickered at my fellow mountain-goers, as their suffering and discomfort was clearly at a level superior to my own. My snickering came to a sudden halt as soon as I witnessed the skiers clamp down their heels, and glide gracefully and swiftly down the slope. Looking down at my own snowshoe-clad feet, I knew it would be a slow journey back down to the car. Maybe there was something to this ski touring sport after all...

My visit up to Notre Dame de Bellecombe, where I was graciously received by the Favrets a few weekends back, affirmed my suspicions.  With some extra gear on hand, my hosts Claude and Christian outfitted me with some touring skis, and we took off up the mountain. I went in with an open mind, keeping focused on the prospect of a speedy and fun-filled descent once we reached the top. To my surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed the ascent.  Quiet trails, sunshine, and good company made it pleasant hard work. We popped out of the trees on top of the ski resort Praz sur Arly, took in some sun, and then started to make our way down. This is where things started to go terribly wrong: with long and heavy skis and lack of practice, I had to resort to the classic, but ultimately humbling method of getting down a mountain. Snowplowing. I grimaced as I was passed by literally everyone on the slopes, and in the end I think it took me longer to get down than it did to get up. 

Even with the ugly descent, I'd consider my first ski tour to be a success. Or at least 50% successful...maybe it would be wise to stick to snowshoeing?

Touring skis
The Favrets
Room with a view
Snowy sunbathing
View of Notre Dame de Bellecombe
Made in France

Saturday 17 March 2012

The View from 3842m

This view was worth a lot more than the 35 Euros it cost to get up. With clear skies and the sun beating down, it was a balmy spring day at the top of l'Aiguille du Midi. The top afforded a bird's eye view of Chamonix sitting below in the valley, a sweeping vista of the Alps, and a view of a myriad of skiers, snowboarders and mountaineers enjoying Mont Blanc.
Adorable scavenger
Mountaineers
The French Alps
Birds flying high
Breathtaking
Chamonix below
Prayer flags
Morgan dreaming
The way to the summit