La Fête des Lumières is an annual festival that takes place in Lyon, showcasing light exhibits by artists and light technicians throughout the city. Although most of the over 3 million people who flock to the city come for the visual pleasure of stunning light displays and installations, the origins of the celebration date back to the 17th century. In the year 1643 the plague was running rampant in Lyon, and town officials stated that they would give thanks to Mary if the city should be cured of the illness. The city was spared from the plague, and as a way of thanking Mary, residents of the city lit their windows with candles. Now, it’s turned into a fabulous display of artistic prowess that draws in an incredible number of tourists. Still, the city doesn’t forget Mary; a huge illuminated sign perched above the city by the monumental Basilique loudly proclaims: “Merci Marie”.
Despite the insane number of people, walking through the streets of Lyon during La Fête des Lumières was a truly magical experience; the feeling of awe created by the various displays of light is contagious, and as we wound our way through the main streets and back alleys of Lyon, you could feel the city being united by the dancing light shining through the city. Although it may sound strange to say it, when I reflect on my experience at La Fête des Lumières, I’d have to say that it was, if anything, emotional. Sitting atop of a ferris wheel overlooking the expanse of Lyon lit up by lights was awe-inspiring. Watching buildings shatter and fall by way of visual illusions was fearful. Listening to classical music while beams of light reflected and refracted around a bridge on the Saône river was strangely calming. Gazing upon a display of dancing, glowing stickmen made me giggle. And having brightly lit neon jellyfish hover above my head on the streets was comforting, like the silence that you feel when submersed under water and the world goes mute.
Accompanying the magic of the lights was the wonderful atmosphere on the streets of Lyon. In Vieux-Lyon, the smell of mulled wine, waffles, and churros (made “French” by the addition of Nutella) wafted through the streets. Lyonnaise “Bouchons” (famous typical restaurants of the city) had line-ups out the door, and a generally friendly buzz followed us wherever we wandered. Amid the chaos of the crowds, we even managed to find some wonderful moments of “quiet”. In the Croix-Rousse quarter (typically a student area), we stumbled upon a wonderful café in a basement with arched cobblestoned ceilings. A croque-monsieur made with chèvre, honey, mint and hazelnuts made the experience unforgettable. Once out in the night again, we happened upon a light display made by mostly young kids called the “Jardin des Lapins”. While we walked through a maze of light-boxed drawings, the soothing sounds of Spanish guitars and a beautiful vista of the city made it a truly special place.
All in all, it’s no wonder that this is one of the biggest urban festivals on the planet. Yes, it’s busy and “il y a du monde” (the warning I received every time I told someone of my impending trip to Lyon), but it was worth every minute of the chaos to be part of this special event.
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| Giant balloons lighting up the night |
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| Ferris wheel with a view |
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| Balloons once again |
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| Ferris wheel (energized) |
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| Giving thanks to Mary |
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| Jellyfish hovering above |
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| Jellyfish in an unfamiliar environment |
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| Plastic made beautiful |
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| Lovebirds |
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| Finally a statue I'll remember... |
